Looking at the clutch, I see that the clutch spring retaining nuts are screwed all the way in and the adjuster screw is all the way in. Ether the plates are worn past service or the springs are sacked. When I measured the springs, they are about 3/8 inch shorter than original, so they need to be replaced. The clutch plates are within the wear limits.
I remove three slotted retaining nuts, the pressure plate and the clutch plates from the clutch basket. This exposes the clutch center retaining plate.
I use a special puller to remove the clutch center It fits over the three studs and the center bolt pulls it off the clutch hub.
This exposes the inner clutch basket. Behind them is the mainshaft with the 20 roller bearings that support the clutch basket..
I previously removed the alternator from the primary side of the crank shaft (on the left in the picture above). So I can now pull the primary sprocket, primary chain and clutch basket. The roller bearings will fall out as I do this, so I go slow to let them fall to the bottom of the engine housing so I don't lose any.
The primary chain tensioner is the black curved shape.
I use a puller to remove the clutch hub. The clutch hub is keyed on the transmission main shaft.
The roller bearings can wear. I measure them and find that they each has worn about 0.015 inch, which when multiplied by 20 roller bearings, is too much wear so I will replace these with new roller bearings.
Welcome to our page of blogs for the Do-it-Yourself (DIY) owner of vintage Triumph, BSA and Norton bikes. As we get projects in the shop, we will choose some and show you how we do the work. If you want to work on your bike yourself, then this material can give you a good idea of what's involved. Although we can't provide individual consultation about your project, feel free to post comments and questions on these blog posts.